Best steps for prepping/painting a plastic bodied model?

by Mitch Peoples
(Berryville VA)


I already trashed an AMT '66 Nova Street car body after what I thought was a good start. I washed the body out of the box, primed with Tamiya fine white primer and painted 3-4 layers of Boyd's Rose aerosol. However, before being able to apply Testors "one coat" shiny finish, I messed up my 1st try at hand painted striping using green metalflake and a thin brush; leaving runs in the door grooves. My use of Acetone to strip the body damaged it beyond use.

I've obtained another body, hood and hoodscoop luckily and have read up on trying again. Please tell me if this makes sense:

Wash body & parts with soap & warm water and air dry.

Prime with Tamiya fine white primer, thin 1st coat and medium 2nd coat.

(At this point I would like to try a gold undercoat technique and a change of primary paint color.)

Apply 1-2 coats of gold paint (thin 1st and 2nd medium; 45 mins. in between coats) followed by a spray of medium one coat clearcote.

Allow to dry 24-48 hours and then apply mist coat of Testors green metallic (regular or one coat for best effect?). Allow this to dry 45 minutes and then apply next coat of final color, ensuring not to completely cover up the hint of gold underneath. Once completed, I intend to add 3 stripes of gold from a graphics roll. I need to know if I should apply decal adhesive/clearcoat next and finally a finishing gloss clearcoat (one coat) by Testors.

Comments for Best steps for prepping/painting a plastic bodied model?

Average Rating starstarstarstarstar

Click here to add your own comments

Aug 27, 2015
True information is shared NEW
by: Dever

Training considered a major wellspring of business yet instruction is for all. Students need to fabricate themselves for future arranging. In this manner, we ought to get training for seeing all the matter of our social and financial issues. So we are given best essays australia for your writing work.

Jan 08, 2014
by: Anonymous

I would allow your undercoats to dry like 48 hours- the hardest thing for me is making myself wait! So, WAIT. Make sure the coats are really dry. I use Pledge Floor wax with 'Future Added' - it is a water based acrylic, you but a whole bottle for ~$6 - you can spray or brush it - has the consistency of water almost - very thin - many coats - but you have to let them dry! When dry, the 'Future' creates a great lustre - I use it all my aircraft canopies to make them pop. Bery forgiving - cleans up with soap and water. TRy that. Also great for 'fixing ' decals and 'pin stripes'? When dry, really DRY - you can really seal it with Testors 'wet look' gloss coat, too. If you like ...

Click here to add your own comments

Join in and write your own page! It's easy to do. How? Simply click here to return to Basics Q&A.