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Weathering Up A Storm


There are very few things in real life that escape some form of looking used. Weathering is a fact of life for everything from buildings to planes, from trees to tanks and from ships to trains.

Weathering is the term of choice in all instances where the purpose of your effort is making the model look like it has been used. This used condition takes many forms. Its up to you to simulate it. Litter accumulates, dirt and grime gets deposited, exhaust stains, sun fades the hardest of painted surfaces, metal rusts, and almost everything shows use and abuse.

Every time you scan large scale photographs of the real thing you can see the obvious signs of age. Make a mental note of what caused the signs and then determine how you can simulate the same signs. NOTE: that is simulate, not duplicate.

For one thing duplication of the aging result relies on time and that is one element you will find hard to duplicate. Another factor of aging in real life is particulate size. For instance, rusting on a surface leaves a fine coating of powdered metal. Even if plastic did rust, the look wouldn't be the same. When you get down to scale of 1:48 or 1:87 this fine powder would look a lot more like a stain.
For one thing duplication of the aging result relies on time and that is one element you will find hard to duplicate. Another factor of aging in real life is particulate size. For instance, rusting on a surface leaves a fine coating of powdered metal. Even if plastic did rust, the look wouldn't be the same. When you get down to scale of 1:48 or 1:87 this fine powder would look a lot more like a stain.

The same is true for other forms of weathering, you need to simulate what occurs in real life and do it in miniature:
  • Exhaust: There are exhaust buffing metalizers out there to paint on exhaust, but I believe their are better ways. No matter what your modeling subject, you need to study photos to learn the normal exhaust staining patterns. Once you have inspected a number of exhaust stains on real life pictures of your model start pulling together your simulation. Whether you select a metalizer, or mix up you own paint/thinner mixture, try it on an unexposed portion of your model to see if your "exhaust stain" matches the real thing without damaging your model.
  • Mud: Mud can be found on the bottom of cars, but may look more natural on a tank or jeep. Mud can be simulated by using putty (One source says Squadron White putty is best). You take a bowl, mixing cup or something else, put putty in and mix in browns, tans, blacks, etc. until you have achieved the color of mud you want.
  • Rust: There are several ways to make rust. One way is to use weathering powders. There are several available you can simulate rust with. To use them take a water soluble solution and mix with the weathering powder, then brush on and let it dry.One such product, RUSTALL also has powders for other weathering (Blackwash, Dead Flat, and Dust Powder) .

Also, think about the region or era you are recreating. Is it likely to be muddy at times or would it be more dusty and arid like in a desert? For example, the rolling stock might need a sun-bleached look, which can be achieved with dullcoat brushed over with some rubbing alcohol. This will give the model a kind of a white milky haze. If you don't like it, respray with dullcoat.

However, always test techniques on something else before you try them out on your prized models, because you may not like the effect.


Weathering is a matter we will explore more. Check back soon


More Painting and Weathering Lore
Painting a Black Art Paintbrush Care Painting Tutorial
Airbrush Preparation Painting Practice Ultimate Paint Job
Weathering Techniques   Weathering Tips

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